![]() ![]() The new bike battery power cutoff was significantly more easily triggered. The old battery must be bounced severely for it to lose power in the same manner. It took 2 power outages to get it up the steps because I'm unable to lift or push the bike. So I had to repeat the removal and reinstall. I had to slide the battery out and back in to regain power and after the bike bounced it lost power again. I had to use the throttle to walk it up a few stairs that were not steep and as the bike bounced a little bit the display turned off and I lost power. The only differences that I can see is the new battery has the addition of a power button with lighted 5-bar power indicator and it's slightly longer. So I ordered a brand new $600 battery from Currie and I'm very pleased with it. By late 2020 and after lots of use in throttle mode, the range after a full charge had over the years gradually gone from18 miles (throttle only range) down to around 11 miles. But after my third surgery, I used it a lot in pedal assist mode for physical therapy. Not much use the first 2 years due to me having spinal issues. (I think that store has since closed.) I made sure this model had the "V2" sticker on the motor, since the first version that was produced had issues with the adhesive for the magnets. ![]() Since it was the last, or one of the last of the 2014 models and I was buying it in 2015, I got a decent discount. I purchased my 2014 Currie Izip E3 Path+ back in early 2015 at Performance Bicycle here in Long Beach. If I can help with additional info or images, please let me know.I understand you do not want to buy the Currie Izip brand $600 battery. For what it’s worth, I’ve been running this way for 900+ miles and the hydraulics are more than sufficient to stop the bike with the motor running, although the pedal assist cuts out as soon as I stop pedaling. Yes, I’m aware that some people feel that it’s a bad idea to run without cutoffs, but I’m not here to debate that. My question: is there a way to either disable the brake cutoff feature, or make the controller see what it wants to see with the sensors removed (like adding the correct resistor to a car when an airbag is removed in a track car)? Im currently running with the old levers zip tied to the cables in front of the handlebars, which looks dumb and is obviously not a proper solution. The system obviously fails “open” to prevent the motor from running away. I also tried disconnecting the sensors where they plug into the controller altogether, but again, no dice. I know this works for other brands, but this setup seems to be more finicky. This has not worked, even when I took the magnets off the levers themselves, even recreating the air gap. Ive tried several variations on removing the sensors from the levers and attaching them with magnets and zip ties so the bike controller is happy and thinks they are in the closed position. I’ve already switched to Shimano hydraulic disc brakes, as the mechanical discs it came with were totally insufficient for a fully loaded commuter with panniers. Looking for specific knowledge on how to disable the brake lever cutoff function for my Diamondback Trace exc /iZip E3 Dash commuting bike.
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